Tuesday, May 25, 2010

Elephants Never Forget, But Neither Will We!


Elephants are some of the most interesting creatures.  As we traveled through the country of Sri Lanka we saw only one alongside the road being led by his owner.  Then we visited the Pinnawela Elephant Orphanage near Kandy and had an up close adventure with these amazing animals.  Pinnawela is operated by the Sri Lankan government and they take in elephants that are unable to care for themselves in the wild.  They have one elephant that is blind from almost being killed by a hunter.  Another special elephant there has only three feet.  He stepped on a land mine during the Tamil Tiger rebellion.  His whole body has become misshapen because of the way he has to maneuver with only three full legs.  There is even an elephant there with a missing ear.  An overly confident leopard claimed the ear but not the life of the elephant.

A land mine victim

On the way to the orphanage our driver Erickson stopped and bought some bananas at a roadside market and told me to put them in my purse and zip it up.  At the entrance of the orphanage there were men standing around with sacks of bananas and were very insistent as they forced them into our hands.  Then they promptly charged us ten times the amount of the roadside bananas.  Erickson just rolled his eyes when he saw how weak we were when it came to the high pressure sales from the locals.  I guess the orphanage doesn't want us bringing our own bananas for the elephants so they can take advantage of the captive consumers - hence the reason Erickson asked me to zip up my purse.

We first met the elephants out at their exercise area.  We first got to feed bananas to the blind elephant and had to put them right inside his large pink mouth.  It was pretty slimy but so cool to be able to be next to such a gentle giant.  We fed the three-legged elephant and then a baby with her mother.  She was so small she was still nursing.  Abbey wanted to know all about that as we watched from six feet away.


So let's be clear:  Elephants are not soft cuddly bedtime buddies like they are portrayed in children's books.  They felt like a bristle brush attached to 8 inch thick leather.  Their personalities though are more like the fables and fairy tales advertise.  These elephants are gigantic and powerful yet they gently submit themselves to the men who must wrangle them throughout the compound.  I asked Erickson why some of them had chains around their legs or necks.  He said those were the working elephants (like the one we saw by the roadside earlier) that are used at the orphanage.  I noticed they got extra special treatment in the river as their trainers bathed them.  I guess there should be some payoffs because I wanted to break all the prodding sticks and chains they had.







After our bananas quickly ran out, Erickson presented Abbey with a special ticket that he had purchased so she could feed a baby elephant.  We walked over to a barn-type building and she waited in line to hold the most enormous baby bottle I have every seen.  Luckily she wanted my help, so I got to be up close when she tipped the bottle into the VERY hungry mouth of the grey youngster.  He was precious and downed that bottle in three seconds.  There was barely enough time for Brett to snap these pictures.





Then we left the orphanage and toured the nearby elephant poop paper factory.  And yes, they make paper from elephant dung and silly tourists like us buy it.  It is quite interesting how they wash it, dye it, and then form and dry it.  I guess every little bit of money helps the facility, so we didn't feel so foolish about our purchase.  Now some of you are wondering who the lucky person is who gets the wonderful souvenir stationery Abbey picked out.  I guess you will just have to be surprised.




Erickson led us down through the small town where shopkeepers were desperate for our business, but the only thing that interested me was the man in the turban with a cobra in a basket and a python.  Abbey snapped a picture before his partner informed everyone that we should pay for such an indulgence because that was their living.  Unfortunately the cobra was put away before the picture was taken.

We wandered down to the river and sat in the balcony of the restaurant with a bird's eye view of the upcoming attraction.  Soon we heard the commotion of the elephants being led down to the river for their regularly scheduled bath.  It was quite impressive to see so many elephants  plodding into the river and then becoming almost childlike as they washed and even played in the water. 




This is one tough handicapped elephant!

I sipped my cool drink in the very humid weather and watched the elephant drama of the day.  We saw the three-legged elephant hop into the river very carefully and then become a regular elephant with the curtain of water over his lower body.  He never did take part in the water games, but he seemed happy anyway.  I guess anyone in that large steamer trunk of a body would be happy sinking into the cool water in that sticky heat.  Abbey seemed very concerned as she noticed many of the elephants walking over to the other side of the river and climbing up the opposite bank.  She thought they were running away, but the trainers didn't seem all that worried, so we realized it was part of the routine.  The large elephant bodies couldn't get enough of the river banks and the dirt they rubbed off onto their backs and head.  It seemed a waste of a good bath to me, but their instincts are strong and keep them from unwanted sunburns and pests.





Can you see the elephant  causing some major erosion?

At one point we saw quite a mass of elephants coming down the cliff one by one on the other side.  They seemed like they were the exact elephants from one of our favorite Disney movies with their military style (a shout out to Jungle Book!).  Then just as most of the elephants were getting down to the beach one of the baby elephants stumbled and rolled down the hillside.  I have never seen elephants move as fast as that group did then.  They quickly surrounded the little guy and stayed there quite awhile.  We couldn't even see him, but we could tell that the elephant family were kissing him better and making sure he was tip top.  It was quite a sight.


The bathing lasted for quite a long time, so Brett and Abbey went down to the riverbank to get some closer pictures and see the Muslim school children who were there on a field trip.  The next thing I saw was Brett wading into the river to bathe an elephant.  Abbey was snapping photos from a safe distance and Brett had a big smile on his face when he got back.





Our next stop was a chance to have our very own elephant ride.  I think the elephant was at least ten feet tall and his name was Samria.  He was gentle but oh so TALL!  The most difficult part of the whole ride was hanging on as he was climbing down into the river.  We were glad we only asked for a 15 minute ride because . . . well . . . let's just say we were VERY saddle sore the next day.  Abbey was a little frightened at first even with me hanging on to her.  I just wished I had stretched out before climbing aboard such a wide ride.  Brett felt like a true Tarzan but didn't complain when it was all over.  With only a small signal from the trainer, Samria dipped his trunk in the water and sprayed us.  Abbey got the worst of it but had a big smile.  Then we ended our ride with a good rub down - for the elephant that is.  They gave us coconut shells and taught us how to rub Samria's back to get the coconut oil into his skin for protection.  He didn't mind our inexperienced hands at all and let us fondle his ears and trunk.  We then said good bye to the elephant crew and drove back into Kandy.










On our way back Brett and Erickson were discussing elephants and Erickson told us an almost unbelievable story.  He said that some of the local people in Sri Lanka build their huts up in the trees so they don't get destroyed by the elephants.  But then the elephants are still a problem for the rice paddies and their vegetable gardens, so the people try everything they can to keep the elephants from invading their areas.  Erickson said one man got so tired of the losing battle with the elephants that he resorted to urinating on the elephant when it was down below the family hut.  He had heard that it would keep the elephants away.  Well, it worked and the elephant left.  But apparently it is true about elephants never forgetting, because a few weeks later, the elephant came across the man as he was walking in the jungle and proceeded to kill him and then urinate on him.  I guess not only do they never forget, they hold grudges too! 

It seems like a Sri Lankan myth, but all we know for sure is that we will never forget our magical elephant experience!

Monday, May 24, 2010

Our Monkeys of Sri Lanka


A Majestic Monkey Sitting Atop Our Restaurant in Kandy
Our first encounter with the monkeys of Sri Lanka was an unconscious, unplanned one.  We spent our first three nights at a beautiful resort in Ahungalla where we had an ocean view from our third floor room.  The sound of the ocean was so relaxing, so we left the balcony door open to lull us to sleep.  The next morning, when we awoke we found that the eight dinner rolls we had wrapped up in a cloth napkin were gone with only two small rolls left on the floor - no napkin in sight.  I first asked Brett if he had been really hungry in the night, but he only looked confused.  When we asked some of the hotel employees if it could have been a monkey they were certain that a few monkeys had helped themselves to our leftovers.  They warned us not to leave the door open again.  I'm just glad they didn't decide to take my wedding ring that was sitting on the night stand.  Monkey Bandits!


Our second monkey encounter was while we were on a river safari near Ahungalla.  Our guide stopped at a fish hatchery to show us all the different kinds of fish, but I quickly noticed a small monkey sitting on the floor of the caretaker's quarters.  The floating hatchery was out in the middle of a lake, so I was hesitant to get out of the boat and walk on the planks for fear of falling into the lake and ending our fun safari - until I saw the monkey.  I was the first one out of the boat. 


I didn't stop to look at the fish but went straight for the monkey and asked to hold him.  He was as light as a feather and so cuddly.  We were told that the monkey had been "rescued" from the jungle because it didn't have a mother.  I don't know if I believe that, but we loved the little guy for as long as we could.  He cuddled right into my neck and didn't want to let go.  Abbey held him next and then Brett.  I didn't want to let him go.  Not even the baby crocodile that Brett held next interested me more.  I almost cried when we left the hatchery.  We let the monkey go back to his corner where he was tied to a post.  The smile on the owner's face didn't reassure me that he was in good hands.  Holding that little guy was probably one of the highlights of the trip.



Sweetheart Bear Monkey

In Kandy we stayed at a beautiful hotel called Amaya Hills and tempted some wild monkeys onto our balcony that overlooked the gorgeous green valley.  We strategically placed some bananas and grapes outside and felt certain we would get some response.  Our hotel room seemed to be in the trees because of the way the hotel was built into the mountain. 

They call the Amaya Hills Hotel the palace in the hills.

I told Brett and Abbey that the first person to spot a monkey would get $10.  About fifteen minutes later Abbey was yelling, "I see a monkey, I see a monkey!" We ran to the windows and sure enough there was one, then two, then a handful of monkeys munching on our offerings. 






I had to open the doors to see if we could get any closer.  They all froze when I stepped out onto the balcony and then started to move down the ledge of the hotel.  My disappointment didn't last though because I guess the word had gotten out, and there were more monkeys coming to put in their orders.  I quickly grabbed some more bananas and Abbey and I got to hand deliver the goods.  It was amazing. 


The monkeys didn't stick around to tell us how grateful they were.  They just went to find their next handout.  Ungrateful Monkeys! 

This guy even stuck his tongue out at us!


They just didn't want to stick around and socialize.  What an ungrateful bunch!

Our last monkey adventure happened on the last day of our vacation.  The morning had been full of visits to a handicraft shop, a batik factory, and a silk store.  After a busy morning we were ready for a nice lunch, so our driver Erickson took us to a place near the silk store. 


                     
Can you find the monkeys in this picture?


Again, it was Abbey who spotted the monkeys as we were finishing our meal.  I rushed to the window with the camera and could see several monkeys crossing the street and climbing the building where we were.  They were climbing up to get to the open restaurant areas that had no people but the remnants of past feasting.  I took some far away shots, but wondered if I could get closer. 

                                    

So Abbey and I walked/ran to the lower level and there they were - the furriest bus boys I had ever seen.  One was involved with a leftover beer and another was looking for crumbs.  Some of the monkeys saw me and Abbey slowly making our way down the stairs so they froze on the edge of the wall.  As you can see, we got pretty close because they weren't too fazed by our presence.  One big guy let me touch his back, but that was as close as I got.  Abbey was a little more cautious than I was.                                                                                       



They didn't want us crashing their cleanup party, so the monkeys made their way up the walls and onto the roof.  By then the commotion was catching and some Japanese people in the restaurant were also snapping pictures.  Over the stairway between levels of the restaurant there was a see-through plastic breezeway covering and Erickson got a kick out of pounding it with his fist whenever a monkey would pass over.  They would jump pretty high from the surprise and we laughed.  The gathering was over as quickly as it had started and the monkeys made their way off the roof onto the telephone wires and into the neighborhood. 


                                                                   Escaping the humans
                                         

                        
                                                            On the roof of the restaurant
                           
           This guy is about to get a surprise from our driver Erickson.

Now they are off to terrorize the neighborhood!
Erickson told us that the monkeys are not very welcome in the area.  They like to get on top of people's houses ( which are really just shacks) and shake the roofs until they can lift them up and get inside to raid the refrigerators and cupboards.  I can see why the locals don't get real excited to see them in their midst.  Erickson also told us that one time when he was in the very same restaurant, sitting at the same table we were sitting at, he saw a monkey grab a lady's phone when she set it down on the bus stop bench.  A crowd quickly gathered and someone called the police because they didn't know how they were going to get the phone away from the monkey who was almost mocking the people from a nearby tree.  The policeman was experienced with this situation so he simply asked for the woman's phone number and called her phone.  When the phone rang the monkey was so startled that he dropped it.  Luckily it landed in the sand and it was fine - problem solved!  I guess that kind of problem solving is a must for a Sri Lankan police officer.  Poor monkey though - he probably just wanted to text his cousin in Madagascar.

Unfortunately for Abbey we left all the monkeys in Sri Lanka.  I don't think they would have liked Doha anyway - not enough shakeable roofs or telephone poles, not to mention trees!

Tuesday, May 18, 2010

This Year's Mother's Day Gift


I had a surprising Mother's Day gift from Brett and Abbey this year.  They gave me a trip to Utah so I could go to BYU Women's Conference with my friend Lori, spend some time with Ben and Mary and my mom and dad, and then spend four days in Denver with Kristy and her family.  I think Brett and Abbey agreed that Mom was pretty much a lump and needed a big pick-me-up, so they knew a pilgrimage to BYU to get my spiritual and emotional cups filled up would do the trick.  They were right.  Seeing my grown-up kids and my two grandsons was a lovely bonus and did wonders for my happiness meter.

Ben and Mary picked me up at the airport - thanks AGAIN guys - and then took me to see their cute condo they moved into a few months ago.  It was so great to see their cozy home and feel their love filling up every corner and crevice as they prepare for this new little sweetheart who will be coming to rock their world this summer.  The baby's room is darling with the bed all set up, ready for my first granddaughter!  Oh, July will not come soon enough.  (At the end of my trip, while I was in Colorado, Kristy and I caught the buying bug and began the glorious experience of pink purchasing.  The outfits weren't ALL pink, but you get the idea.)  Mary looks so beautiful with her baby tummy and she and Ben are preparing for parenthood in such a thoughtful, purposeful way.  I'm so proud of them!  I forgot to take pictures of the baby's room or Ben and Mary, so you will just have to take my word for it - they are wonderful!

My friend Lori and I have gone to Women's Conference together a few times and have loved the time together learning and serving, so we were both very disappointed when we couldn't go last year because I was in the Middle East.  Well, Lori was pretty surprised when I called to ask her if she could make arrangements to go this year.


The conference was wonderful, as always, but this year both Lori and I took things a little more slowly and thoughtfully.  We kind of plodded our way through, so to speak.  Other years we have raced to get into lines for the more popular classes and worn ourselves out with strategizing and squeezing every last drop of opportunity out of the two days.  This time we promised ourselves we were just going to enjoy our time together and let the experience happen a little more naturally.  I think our ages and our health have forced us to come up with this new plan, but I really think it worked.

Lori is really quite talented!

My favorite classes had to do with having a merry heart, dealing with depression, and cultivating trust in marriage.  Both Lori and I felt the need to laugh as much as possible, so we gravitated toward the more hopeful class titles and let all the 20 and 30 year olds attend the supermom guilt-ridden lectures. 

We woke up to snow at BYU

This is the all important Women's Conference Bag.

One of my favorite general sessions was by Renata Forste and was entitled "Coming Together and Sustaining Each Other in Righteous Choices." She talked about how women sometimes sabotage each other instead of supporting and lifting one another.  Much of her talk was taken from a Dave Barry article entitled, "The Ugly Truth About Beauty."  If you google the title you will find a copy of the article and it is worth reading, framing, sending to friends on their birthdays, and passing on to your daughters.  Sister Forste said that as women we don't have to be victims of our socialization.  We need to step back and evaluate expectations of ourselves and see if they fit with our eternal goals.  We should also be mindful of the unnecessary expectations we put on other women to follow our same path.  She pointed out that personal revelation does not mean others must follow that same path.  We need to sustain each other as we make righteous choices.  This doesn't mean we can laud our testimonies and faith over other women and use them as a wedge.  She said that if we do we might meet some of these women we judged in heaven, and they will recognize us and say,  "Oh yes, you were a believer but you skipped the part about not being a jerk about it." It is funny but sadly true.

The class on dealing with depression was the most helpful and meaningful one for me.  It was kind of a miracle that we went because I hadn't noticed it listed in the schedule, but Lori did at the last minute, so we went.  The two psychologists who spoke were very positive, and I came away from the class with a lot of hope and some great resources I am already using.  As we were leaving the auditorium where the class was held there was a young woman sitting on the very top row crying.  She was all curled up and truly in pain.  I can only imagine what she has been through and what the class brought up for her.  I couldn't just let her sit there and cry alone, so I asked Lori to wait.  I climbed the stairs and asked her if I could give her a hug.  Her cries turned to gasps and she allowed me to hug her.  She didn't talk.  She just kept crying, but she wasn't alone.  I asked her if I could help, but she just shook her head.  I still think about her and pray for her.  I hope that the presenters were able to talk to her after I left.


"Grandma, do you know what a fork is?"

My four days in Denver at the tail end of my trip was so wonderful.  My grandsons were exactly the medicine I needed.  Before we even got home from the airport, four year old Thomas was telling me that he was going to teach me how to play chess as soon as we walked in the door.  And yes, that is exactly what he did.  I learned all the moves.  I learned what a fork is (a move where you use one of your pieces to attack two or more of your opponent's pieces), and luckily I got a phone call and had to turn the game over to Jared, or Thomas would have beaten me soundly.  As it was, Thomas did beat his dad and proceeded to celebrate by writing an email to Grandpa Brett about how he had put his dad in checkmate "at last." Yes, he had to wait until the ripe old age of four to beat his dad in chess!  (Jared told me he went easy on Thomas this time.)

Kimball cuddled with me every morning and all during each day.  That boy is a lover AND a fighter (he tends to get into mischief quite a bit).  Kristy and I talked about books, music, mothering, and her goals and plans for their future.  Jared and I took the boys to their new public library while Kristy taught piano lessons.  Thomas and Kimball really know their way around the book stacks and even know all the librarians by their first names.  One librarian talked my ear off about my brilliant grandsons.  I didn't mind a bit!


Kristy entertained me while shopping.
Kimball is a caution!

Kimball fed a goat at the farm.  He has no fear whatsoever!

 Kristy's cooking was amazing and so delicious.  She made enchiladas, corn salsa, strawberry/rhubarb crunch, lamb gyros (with homemade flat bread), caramel cake, and many other tasty delights.  I felt so spoiled.  We went to the zoo, the movie, the Littleton Farm, and the temple.  We packed as much into those four days as my body could handle.  I flew back to Doha with smiles and memories to last at least until we get back home this summer!

Tuesday, May 11, 2010

It's Important to Make New Friends - The Furry Kind

We made some friends today in Sri Lanka while we were on a river safari.  These friends were the furry kind and so amazing.  This is only a handful of the wonderful wildlife we saw.  I will have to share more photos later.  The bear monkey was the hands down favorite and Abbey just cannot understand why we can't take him back to Qatar with us. 


A Very Serious Bear Monkey We Met at the Fish Hatchery



Monkey Cuddles are REALLY Wonderful!








This giant squirrel was very comfortable in the Buddist temple we visited.

This is a water monitor and looks like a miniature alligator and isn't so furry, but I had to include him.  I don't know what you think, but I think he is pretty efficient at his job.  I would NOT get in the water with him slithering around.